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The magnificent Mahadeva temple at ETTUMANUR,12km north of Kottayam on the road to Ernakulam, features a circular shrine, fine woodcarving and one of the earliest (sixteenth-century) and most celebrated of Keralan murals. The deity is Shiva in one of his most terrible aspects, described as vaddikasula vada,"one who takes his dues with interest" and is "difficult to please". His predominant mood is raudra (fury). Although the shrine is open to Hindus only, foreigners are allowed to see the painting, which may be photographed only after obtaining a camera ticket from the hatch to the left of the main gopura entranceway. The four-meter mural depicts Nataraja - Shiva - executing a cosmic tandava dance, trampling evil underfoot in the form of a demon. Swathed in cobras, he stands on one leg in a wheel of gold, with his matted locks fanning out amid a mass of flowers and snakes. Outside the wheel, a crowd of celestials are in attitudes of devotion. Musical accompaniment is courtesy of Krishna on flute, three-headed Brahma on cymbals, and, playing the copper mizhavu,the holiest and most ancient of Keralan drums, Shiva's special rhythm expert Nandikesvara. Ettumanur's ten-day annual festival (Feb/March; ask at any KTDC office for details) reflects the wealth of the temple, with elaborate celebrations including music. On the most important days, the eighth and tenth, priests bring out figures of elephants, fashioned from 460kg of gold, presented in the eighteenth century by Marthanda Varma, the raja of Travancore.
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