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The pothole-filled road that winds through the undulating hills up to Kumily from Ernakulam and Kottayam makes for a very long, slow drive, but it gives wonderful views across the Ghats. The route is dotted with grand churches among the trees, and numerous jazzy roadside shrines to St Francis, St George or the Virgin Mary - a charming Keralan blend of ancient and modern. Once you've climbed through the rubber-tree forests into Idukki District, the mountains get truly spectacular, and the wide-floored valleys are carpeted with lush tea and cardamom plantations. Travellers heading for the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary have first to make their way to the village of Kumily, 4km short of the barrier at Thekkady park entrance, on the northwest of the reserve. Kumily, which boasts a tea and spice market, is served by state and private buses from Kottayam (every 30min; 4hr), Ernakulam (10 daily; 6hr), and Madurai in Tamil Nadu (frequent service; 5hr 30min); most of these terminate at the scruffy bus stand east of Kumily bazaar. From here a minibus (Rs4) shuttles visitors to the park gate, although some continue through to the KTDC Aranya Nivas,at Thekaddy inside the sanctuary. Auto-rickshaws will also run you from the bus stand to the Aranya Nivas for Rs25 plus Rs5 park entry, but if you are arriving late remember the gates close at 6pm, after which you will have to show proof of your accommodation booking before they will let you in. If you are staying at the KTDC Lake Palace,the last boat is officially at 4pm but they will arrange a boat during daylight hours. The entrance fee to the park is Rs10 for Indians and Rs50 for foreigners, both valid for one day only; if you are staying inside the park you must go to the Forest Information Centre by the jetty each day to buy a new pass. KTDC runs hectic and uncomfortable weekend tours to Periyar from Kochi, calling at Kadamattom and Idukki Dam en route; Sat 7.30am-Sun 8pm), and an even more rushed tour from Thiruvananthapuram. Unless you love being cooped up for days in video buses, give them a miss. Numerous tour operators in Thiruvananthapuram, Kovalam and Kochi also offer tailor-made packages.
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Explore Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
Cardamom Hills
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Explore Thrissur
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