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The village of Cheruthuruthy is an easy day-trip 32km north of Thrissur through gently undulating green country. It consists of a few lanes and one main street, which runs south from the bank of Kerala's longest river, the Bharatapuzha (pronounced Bharatapura). Considered holy by Hindus, the great river has declined in recent years, leaving a vast expanse of sand. Although of little consolation to locals, who have to deal with the problems of a depleted water supply, it has produced a landscape of incomparable beauty. Cheruthuruthy is famous as the home of Kerala Kalamandalam , the state's flagship training school for Kathakali and other indigenous Keralan performing arts, which was founded in 1927 by the revered Keralan poet Vallathol (1878-1957). At first patronized by the Raja of Cochin, the school has been funded by both state and national governments and has been instrumental in the large-scale revival of interest in Kathakali, and other unique Keralan art forms. Despite conservative opposition, it followed an open-door recruitment policy, based on artistic merit, which produced "scheduled caste", Muslim and Christian graduates along with the usual Hindu castes, something that was previously unimaginable. Kalamandalam artists perform in the great theatres of the world, many sharing their extraordinary skills with outsiders; luminaries of modern theatre, such as Grotowski and Peter Brook, are indebted to them. Nonetheless, many of these trained artists are still excluded from entering, let alone performing in, temples, which are popular venues for Hindu art forms, and in particular music. Non-Hindus can see Kathakali, Kutiyattam and Mohiniattam performed in the school's superb theatre, which replicates the wooden, sloping-roofed traditional theatres, known as kuttambalams , found in Keralan temples. If you're interested in how this extraordinary technique is taught, don't miss the chance to sit in on the rigorous training sessions, which have to be seen to be believed (Mon-Fri 4.30am-5pm; closed on public holidays). A handful of foreigners each year also come to the Kalamandalam academy to attend full-time courses in Kathakali and other traditional dance and theatre forms. Those interested should first apply in writing. Short courses last for a minimum of one month, or there are condensed courses of between three and six months. Full courses usually last between four and six years and foreign students, with the necessary student visas, are allowed to attend for a maximum of four years. Applications may be made from abroad (write to the Secretary, Kerala Kalamandalam, Vallathol Nagar, Cheruthuruthy, Thrissur Dist, Kerala 679 531), but it's a good idea to visit before committing yourself. The students' lot here is not an easy one - to say the least. For information contact the school office (tel 0488/462418, fax 462019). A good time to visit is during their annual week-long festival starting on Christmas Day. Held at the kuttambalam and at their original riverside campus amongst the trees, the festival presents all the art forms of Kerala and is free - although the limited accommodation can be a problem. A short walk past the old campus leads to a small but exquisite Shiva temple in classic Keralan style, where the early evening worship, when the exterior is lit with candles, is particularly rewarding.
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