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The peak time to visit the Bird Sanctuary,which is no longer negotiable by boat since the channels have been choked by African moss, is between November and March when it serves as a winter home for many migratory birds, some from as far away as Siberia. Species include the darter or snake bird, little cormorant, night heron, golden-backed woodpecker, crow pheasant, white-breasted water hen and tree pie. Enthusiasts should visit the sanctuary at dawn, which is the quietest and best time for viewing, and the early rays of sunlight falling through the lush tropical canopy are beautiful. Although the island is quite small, a guide is useful; you can arrange one through the KTDC Water Scapes or another of the luxury hotels.
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A new rival has emerged, the Kumarakom Lake Resort,3km from the village and just before the Taj (phone 0481/524900, fax 524987; Rs2500 and upwards). This ostentatious place takes the concept of a heritage resort to the extreme with two beautiful 300-year-old palaces recovered and reconstructed on site, ultra-luxurious cottages made up from bits of old Keralan houses, each with an outdoor bathroom hidden in a little lush garden behind. The Ayurveda centre has two doctors, four massage rooms, and the swimming pool has a Jacuzzi whose water laps the edge of the lake. Nearby, the slightly cheaper KTDC's Water Scapes right on the lake (phone 0481/525861, fax 525862; Rs2500 and upwards) consists of comfortable a/c cottages built on stilts. Unfortunately, very few of the cottages have a decent view over the lake and there are too many ugly metal walkways and buildings on the lakefront; it is however, very convenient for the bird sanctuary. Alternatively, you can drift across the lake on one of their luxury kettu vallams moored here (book through Water Scapes ; Rs2500 and upwards). If you are on a budget, take advantage of the excellent Moolappura Guest House,just 200m before the bus stand at the Taj (tel 0481/525980; Rs400-600), which has just two simple rooms with attached bathrooms in the family house. The family is very warm and welcoming: they offer rides on their dugout boats, and can even boast of a professional chef among their number, who whips up delicious Keralan and continental dishes. Besides the hotels, the only other place to eat is KTDC's uninspiring café at the Tourist Complex near where the bus from Kottayam pulls in, close to the Taj gates.
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KUMARAKOM,16km west of Kottayam, is technically an island on 
Next to the sanctuary, set in waterside gardens, a refurbished
colonial bungalow that once belonged to a family of Christian
missionaries and rubber planters forms the nucleus of a luxury
hotel, The Taj Garden Retreat (phone 0481/524377; Rs2500 and upwards).
There are a couple of dozen "cottages" and a kettu vallam
longboat grouped around a landscaped garden and direct water access
to the lake. However, it's not nearly as impressive as the very
friendly and understated Coconut Lagoon Hotel (phone 0481/524491, fax 524495;
Rs2500 and upwards), 1km northwest and reached by launch (you can
telephone for the boat from a kiosk at the canal side). Superbly
crafted from fragments of ruined Keralan palaces, with beautiful
woodcarvings and brass work, the building alone merits a visit. It
was designed in traditional Keralan style, and its air of low-key
elegance is set off perfectly by the location on the edge of 