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Groups of up to ten people can charter a kettu vallam moored at Karunagapalli for a day's cruise on the backwaters. The boat has comfortable cane chairs and a raised central platform where passengers can laze on cushions; there's a toilet on board and cool drinks are available. Sections of the curved roof of wood and plaited palms open out to provide shade and allow uninterrupted views. Whether powered by local gondoliers or by sail, the trip is as quiet and restful (at least for the passengers) as you could possibly want. At around Rs3000 for the day, including lunch, the luxury is well worth it. For longer trips you take a kettu vallam that has been converted into a houseboat with one/two bedrooms and a kitchen. A cook will also be provided. To book either, call Tourindia, MG Road, Thiruvananthapuram (phone 0471/331057). Almost every mid- to top-range hotel situated near the backwaters has its own private kettu vallum boat available for residents to hire. Alternatively, DTPC (tel 0477/251796) and ATDC (tel 0477/243462, www.atdcalleppey.com ) operate fleets (ATDC has fifteen rice boats available, DTPC only three) from Alleppey, and there are dozens of private kettu vallam operators in both Alleppey and Kollam who will arrange a trip if you turn up on spec.
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However, overnight kettu vallam cruises are not cheap, at Rs3000-5000 for two people for a two- to three-day cruise. Competition is stiff, and private agencies charge very similar prices, although you may be able to haggle the price down slightly, especially in the low season.
As a word of warning, as simple as the life in the backwaters
appears to be, take care of your belongings at all times; there have
been recent reports of theft, especially during the night when the
crew sleep on dry land and the large windows are open. If possible,
lock your valuables away (or put them under the bed), and keep
belongings away from the windows.
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