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The easiest place to catch a glimpse of Teyyattam is the village of PARASSINIKADAVU, 20km north of Kannur beside the River Valapatanam, where the head priest, or madayan,of the Parassini Madammpura temple performs every day during winter before assembled devotees. Elaborately dressed and accompanied by a traditional drum group, he becomes possessed by the temple's presiding deity - Lord Muthappan, Shiva in the form of a kiratha,or hunter - and enacts a series of complex offerings. The two-hour ceremony culminates when the priest/deity dances forward to bless individual members of the congregation. Even by Keralan standards, this is an extraordinary spectacle, and well worth taking time out of a journey along the coast for. Regular local buses leave Kannur for Parassinikadavu from around 7am, dropping passengers at the top of the village, ten minutes on foot from the temple. However, if you want to get there in time for the dawn Teyyattam (4am-8am), you'll have to splash out on one of the Ambassador taxis that line up outside Kannur bus stand.
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The cabbies sleep in their cars, so you can arrange the trip on the spot by waking one up; you can also arrange a taxi through one of the more upmarket hotels. Alternatively, head out to Parassinikadavu for the early afternoon ritual, which starts around 2pm, allowing you plenty of time to get there and back by bus, with thirty minutes or so to browse the temple bazaar (whose stalls do a great line in kitsch Lord Muthappan souvenirs). Note that the performances do not always take place, so it's a good idea to phone in advance (phone 0497/780722). Otherwise, if you are there between October and March, ask around or check the local newspaper, as there's sure to be a local village Teyyattam performance in the area.
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Explore Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
Cardamom Hills
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