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Seafood lovers will do well in Varkala's increasingly sophisticated clifftop café-restaurants, some of which have upper stories raised on stilts for better sea views. Prices are quite high and the service slow, but the superb location more than compensates, especially in the evenings when the sea twinkles with the lights of countless fishing boats. Most of the restaurants offer identical menus with fresh fish, including shark, on display. Apart from Kerala, it's increasingly hard to find a menu that gives Indian cuisine any recognition, as more restaurants cater to homesick European taste buds - pizza is rapidly taking over as the local dish. Due to Kerala's antiquated licensing laws, which involve huge amounts of tax, beer is discreetly available, but at a price (Rs75-90), as none of the cafés are supposed to sell it and periodically get raided, resulting in official or unofficial fines. One alternative is to retire to the comforts of the Taj Garden Retreat 's bar and superb restaurant, but you will have to pay through the nose. Clafouti,North Clifftop. Little tables under rustling palm trees, and a wonderful French bakery counter stacked with croissants, pain-aux-raisins,baguettes, and sweet pies. In the evening they dish up a set three-course menu (about Rs150) which is changed daily.
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Kerala,North Clifftop. As the name suggests, this place serves up iddli-dosa breakfasts, unlimited "meals" at lunch (Rs30) and thalis, barottas and dosas in the evening. Although nowhere as spicy as the real thing, this place is about as authentic as you'll hope to get in the cliff-top area. Mammas,Beach Road. You are greeted with the vigorous kneading of fresh dough and the wonderful smell of pizzas cooking in the traditional wood-fired oven. Relaxed and popular, and the food's delicious. Shri Padman,next to temple, Varkala village. The large rear terrace of this unpromising, grubby-looking "meals" joint is the main travellers' hang-out in Varkala. The (Indian veg) food is cheap and delicious (try the coconut-rich navrattan,deep-fried cheese, garlic chapatis, or filling biriyanis), and the location atmospheric, especially at breakfast time, when villagers come to the tank to bathe. Trattoria,North Clifftop. If you can ignore the tropical climate, you could be in Italy, as large groups of friends and families enjoy long lunches around tables covered with red-and-white checked tablecloths and generous bowls of pasta. The menu has fish, calamari, mussels and prawn dishes amongst the pizza and pasta - only the wine is missing.
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